The derailleur offers a much larger gear range than an internal hub. This can help the bike run more efficiently as well as give it more low-end torque, and high-end speed. The internal hub is for those who go through some rough terrain, such as mud, fields, tall grass. Not having a derailleur allows this bike to go through all of this without any worry of a derailleur getting broken off. The internal hub is geared fairly low to make climbing easier but loses a little torque and some top end going from 11-speeds to only 3.

This is more of a personal preference rather than a set in stone range. We recommend 15-20 psi if on pavement and 10-15 psi if off-road and 8-10 psi if you are in very soft conditions like snow or sand. Which tire pressure works best for you also depends on rider weight and if you are pulling a trailer. These ranges are just general guidelines. Disclaimer: Our bikes have tubes in the wheels and the lower the air pressure you run the more susceptible you are to getting flats due to the tube pinching.

The top speed of your bike will depend upon your model of bike, motor, rider weight, terrain and cargo but on average our bikes go 20-30 mph.

Many internal hub gears, especially when coasting, make a clicking sound due to the engagement mechanism. This is common in some hub designs, where pawls inside the hub engage and disengage, producing that clicking noise

You can either fill out the registration that is in the product manual and send it in to us or simply follow this URL:https://www.rambobikes.com/pages/product-registration

When the order was placed if you gave us an email address you should have received an order confirmation. Once the item is fulfilled in our warehouse you will receive another email with tracking/shipping information of your order. Once you have that tracking number you can track the order through the shipper to see an expected delivery date. 

If your bike is equipped with walk assist mode, Press and hold the “-” button on the handle bar control until “P” or a "walking man" appears on the screen. The bike will begin to assist you 2-3mph and will stop assisting when you remove pressure from the “-” button

Most commonly this is caused when the silver magnet attached to a spoke on the rear wheel is no longer alined with the sensor that is attached to the frame. There are two types of sensors: Bolt-on or Zip-tied.

• Bolt-on- For the magnet to be in the correct position on the bolt-on style, the magnet needs to pass by the center of the Bafang logo on the sensor.
• Zip-tied- For the magnet to be in the correct position on the zip-tie mount style, the magnet needs to pass by the center of the sensor body where there is a raised circle.

If the magnet is in the correct position and you are still getting the error code, the next thing to check is that the sensor cable is still plugged in between the rear wheel and motor. When doing this also check to see if there is any damage to the cable. If the plug is still firmly attached and the cable appears to be in good condition then something has become faulty in the sensor and the only remedy is by contacting Rambo for a replacement.

This is generally caused by improper gear adjustment. Put the bike in third gear and tighten up the tension of the shifter so it is taut. To know if it is adjusted correctly, first gear should not click as you are pedaling. If a visual is needed, refer them to the Rambo Video titled “Rear Wheel Removal” If this does not work, the Sheldon Brown website has another way of adjusting the shifting that tends to be a little more exact, but tedious. Here is the link:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_tech.html

External Gears: Bikes that have a standard external gearing system should not click unless you are coasting and not pedaling.

Internal Gear Hubs: It is normal for internal geared hubs to click even when pedaling forward. This is because unlike external gears where there is only one clutch system with spring loaded pawls, (The things that make the clicking noise), there is a separate clutch for each internal gear. For example if you are in second gear and pedaling, your first and third gear are not engaged and therefor their pawls will be clicking.

One added piece of info: The hub may be silent when pedaling forward for the first couple miles or the first one hundred miles. This is caused by excess grease getting in to the clutch system during the manufacturing process. It is NOT recommended to take the hub apart.

Some of the forks on our bikes come with a guide that is stuck onto one of the legs of the fork. If your bike doesn’t have a sticker there are two ways you can set the air pressure. It all comes down to personal preference, but also making sure you don’t bottom out the shock if you hit a bike hole, rut, etc.

• The first way is setting the pressure of the fork to 100psi and riding to essentially guess and check to see if that pressure works for you. If it is too stiff or too loose for your preference add or remove air at 5psi increments until you reach the desired softness or firmness.
• The second way is by using the band that is wrapped around the post that goes into the lower part of the fork as a guide, (you can use a zip-tie around that post instead if your fork didn’t have a rubber ring or it fell off).

Using something to lean on or a friend to hold up the bike, get on the bike and get into an “attack” position. This is done by standing up on the pedals and having your hands on the bars. Bounce up and down a few times to get the fork into resting position. After bouncing slide the rubber ring or zip-tie down to where the post feeds into the lower part of the fork. Gently get off the bike to try not to move the ring. When off the bike check to see if resting position is when 20-30% of your fork’s travel is used. If so you have the correct pressure. If not, add more air if resting position is 30% or more of your travel, or remove air if resting position is 20% or less of your fork’s travel. A general rule of thumb is to adjust by increments of 5-10 psi since it doesn’t take much to get into a good position.

Long story short, mid-drive motors provide more torque, which is what will help you get up hills and through the woods better. Hub drives are good for people that are using the bike as a form of transportation such as commuting on pavement or hard packed trails. Off-road is where the mid-drive motors excel, especially when paired with the power that Bafang offers that other competing mid-drives do not. That is why our moto is “takes you places you’ve never been!”

Most of our bikes come with Adjustable Class Settings (ACS) this can be accessed through your display. Adjustable Class Settings (ACS) on e-bikes refer to the ability to change the bike's power settings to comply with local regulations. Since different areas have different rules for electric bike usage, ACS allows riders to adjust the bike's speed and power output to match the legal requirements of their location.

Class Breakdown:

1. Class 1: Pedal-assist only, no throttle, with a maximum assisted speed of 20 mph (32 km/h). The motor provides assistance only when you are pedaling.
2. Class 2: Throttle-assisted with a maximum speed of 20 mph. The motor can propel the bike without pedaling, but it stops assisting once the bike reaches 20 mph.
3. Class 3: Pedal-assist only, no throttle, with a maximum assisted speed of 28 mph (45 km/h). These bikes are typically restricted from bike paths but allowed on roads.

By adjusting the class settings, your e-bike can be configured to comply with specific local rules where higher or lower power limits are in effect. This feature is especially useful if you’re riding in areas with varying regulations or want more control over your bike’s performance.

The owner's manual for each bike will provide detailed steps on how to adjust these settings via the display interface.

We do offer a discount to all Active and Retired Military, Law enforcement, and First Responders.

A pedal assist range varies on many factors, the biggest ones are: rider weight, how technical or hilly the terrain is, what assist level you are on, and how much you are pedaling along with the assist. The effective pedal assist range after weighing in these factors is estimated somewhere around 10-30+ miles. 10 being high assist and/or hilly terrain, and 30+ being low assist level on relatively flat ground.

The batteries generally take 4-5 hours to charge when empty.

The charger will spark when it is being plugged into the battery if it is not plugged into the wall outlet. When it is plugged into a wall outlet the charger is grounded and will prevent the spark.

Class 1 is Pedal-assist ONLY no throttle, with a maximum assisted speed of 20 mph (32 km/h). The motor provides assistance only when you are pedaling.

No, there is no current technology to allow you to recharge that big of a battery through pedaling. You wouldn’t be able to generate enough power for it to recharge efficiently.

We are here to help! On your locking mechanism, on your bike is a series of numbers. We will need the last 4 digits to get you a replacement key.

The correct PSI for your rear shock on a full suspension bike depends on several factors, including your weight, riding style, and the type of terrain you’re riding on. However, a common guideline is to set the PSI based on your body weight and the manufacturer’s recommendations. Here’s a general approach to help you get started:

1. Starting Point: Body Weight to PSI Ratio

• A basic rule is to start with your weight in pounds (with all your riding gear on) and multiply it by 1.5 to 2.0. For example:

2. Sag Adjustment

• Sag is the amount the rear shock compresses under your body weight when you sit on the bike. Most manufacturers recommend setting the sag between 25-30% for general trail riding. For downhill riding, 30-35% sag is common.
• To adjust sag:

3. Terrain and Riding Style

• For aggressive or downhill riding, you might prefer a bit more sag, resulting in slightly lower PSI for better traction and control.
• For cross-country or smooth trails, higher PSI will provide more efficient pedaling and a firmer ride.

Note, bikes with a mid drive motor and mechanical gears will have an electric cut off called a “shift Sensor”. The shift sensor detects when
the mechanical gears are being shifted and momentarily cuts off the motor power when the bike is making shifts. This allows the bike to shift with less torque
on the system and extend the life of your drive train system.